INTRODUCTION
Nestled in the hills above Meursault and Volnay, the high-elevation Saint-Romain is blossoming amid Burgundy's changing climate. Domaine Buisson is at the forefront of its emergence as an appellation to be reckoned with.
The valley of Saint-Romain is one of the highest elevation villages within the Cote d’Or, and one of the most beautiful Burgundian landscapes. It feels like a magical enclave, remote and cut off from the lower-lying villages that line the Côte d’Or’s Route Nationale. These are vineyards that can hang onto fresh acidity and lower alcohols through today’s warmer summers.
Since 2008, Domaine Buisson has been run by brothers Franck and Frédérick, sons of Gilles and grandsons of Henri. The estate has been certified organic since 2009 and biodynamic since 2018. It has 19 hectares in total, of which half are in Saint-Romain, where the domaine’s production is 75% white and 25% red.
The quantities of the release are very small but I recommend trying to get hold of some. With Saint Romain gaining reputation of producing exceptional quality wines in recent years, this is a name to watch.
THIBAUT MATHIEU
Managing Director Asia
THE WINES
The Buissons have worked their local vines since 1758 but it was not until 1947 that Henri Buisson bought five hectares of vines and set up as an independent vigneron. In the same year, Saint-Romain obtained its AOC status.
Gilles, Henri's son, and his wife Monica expanded the vineyard holdings to 14 hectares in 2000. They built a new winery from scratch and invested in winemaking equipment. They passed onto their children, Franck and Frédérick, the foundations of an estate ripe to be taken to the next level.
Franck and Frédérick Buisson are the 8th generation, which may explain their confidence. Both brothers exude a natural, easygoing assuredness while driving around the valley, pointing out their vines. Their estate lies at the foot of the high cliffs of Saint-Romain, the 350m+ elevation making for both good views and fresh breezes, which were very welcome on the scorching day we visited the vineyards with them.
The three Saint-Romain wines here are from the 2021 vintage, while the Corton Grand Cru is from the 2020 vintage. 2021 is a fabulous white wine year, whose crispness and precision really complements the natural focus of the Buisson wines.
SAINT-ROMAIN EN POILLANGE 2021
En Poillange is a south-east facing lieu-dit, planted with 60-year-old vines. At over 350m above sea level, it is well sited to capture the cool mineral focus of Saint-Romain. White peaches and flinty minerality on the nose, leading into a palate of apple and pear fruit, mineral tension and crunchy acidity, with a chalky, friable leesiness. This will meld over the next year or two and will make for delightful medium-term drinking. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029
SAINT-ROMAIN SOUS LA VELLE 2021
On the opposite side of the valley, Sous la Velle is an east-facing plot of 60-year-old vines. At 370m of elevation, it is a little higher than En Poillange. There is more weight and presence here, balanced by impressively taut acidity and a fine line of chalky minerality. Tangy citrus (lemon and tangerine rind) persists on the long finish. Great sense of place – this is textbook Saint-Romain. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2024–2030
The Buissons have worked their local vines since 1758 but it was not until 1947 that Henri Buisson bought five hectares of vines and set up as an independent vigneron. In the same year, Saint-Romain obtained its AOC status.
Gilles, Henri's son, and his wife Monica expanded the vineyard holdings to 14 hectares in 2000. They built a new winery from scratch and invested in winemaking equipment. They passed onto their children, Franck and Frédérick, the foundations of an estate ripe to be taken to the next level.
Franck and Frédérick Buisson are the 8th generation, which may explain their confidence. Both brothers exude a natural, easygoing assuredness while driving around the valley, pointing out their vines. Their estate lies at the foot of the high cliffs of Saint-Romain, the 350m+ elevation making for both good views and fresh breezes, which were very welcome on the scorching day we visited the vineyards with them.
The three Saint-Romain wines here are from the 2021 vintage, while the Corton Grand Cru is from the 2020 vintage. 2021 is a fabulous white wine year, whose crispness and precision really complements the natural focus of the Buisson wines.
SAINT-ROMAIN ROUGE SOUS ROCHE 2021
The neighbouring lieu-dit to Sous la Velle, Sous Roche is planted to Pinot Noir. This is a west-facing plot of 60-year-old vines, at 380m elevation. Lots of whole bunch spice aromas here – a soaringly pretty nose of roses and exotic spices. The medium-bodied palate is open and beguiling, with pure raspberry and supple tannins, lifted by fresh acidity. A charmer of a wine, which can be approached early but will repay cellaring. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2024–2032+
CORTON GRAND CRU LES RENARDES 2020
We have managed to secure a small amount of the domaine’s Corton Renardes, from the previous vintage, 2020. This esteemed east-facing grand cru lies some 15km to the north-east of Saint-Romain, on the other side of Beaune. 60-year-old vines, at 300m above sea level. Darker and meatier than the Saint-Romain Rouge Sous Roche, but with a similar aromatic playfulness and lightness of touch. The raspberry- and blackberry-fruited palate is supple and fine-boned, with sappy spices and fresh mint. 13.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2036