The Cellars

The historic Dugat-Py cellars are the only remaining part of a 9th century abbey. Built in the 11th and 12th centuries they are, according to Loїc Dugat, Burgundy’s oldest. The abbey itself belonged to the St-Bénigne order in Dijon. Aumônier (Abbot) Halinard was responsible for its construction, at the foot of Gevrey-Chambertin’s Combe de Lavaux. Of particular note are the Aumônerie’s gothic vaults and Byzantine style. Its six-metre height is extraordinary, lending a quasi-religious character. Indeed, in its early years, it would have been the monks who tended to both the vineyards and the cellar. The cellar contains bottles made by Loїc’s father, grandfather and great-grandfather. All vintages since 1950 are represented, as well as some even older bottles. This large area of natural cellar space, with no need for air conditioning, is a rare luxury in the region. Cellarage and ageing are clearly close to Loїc’s heart. He stresses, “the great terroirs only wake up after 5-10 years in bottle.” Loïc has reduced the percentage of new oak. His father Bernard tended to use 100% new oak for all premiers and grands crus, and sometimes for communal appellations too. The premiers crus now see around 50% new oak, and the Vosne-Romanée just 30%. Loïc has also refined his selection of forests, seasoning and toast. The domaine’s cooper is François Frères.