Domaine du Couvent En Primeur 2022

This comes from a 0.35 hectare parcel. It is a similar terroir to Marsannay’s Clos du Roy, according to Philippe. The vines face east, with exceptionally long rows (250m) that are characterised by a slight slope that becomes steeper towards the top of the parcel. The soils are a combination of rolled pebbles, silt and Bresse marls. A wine of clarity and texture, with fine white peach fruit. Only five barrels were made. Fermented in oak barrels for 15 months with no lees stirring. The wine is lightly fined before bottling.

From two tiny plots, Grands Champs and Prunier, totalling 0.33 hectares, this ‘simple’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir includes vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. Clay rich soils, meaning you have to be careful with the yields. Dark cherry fruit and spices from the 100% whole bunch fermentation, which Philippe did for the first time in 2021. Bright and fresh, a wine of lively energy and dark coulis fruit. Eight barrels were made in 2022, which was the maximum here. 

Just 0.43 hectares here, in this admired Marsannay lieu-dit in the north of the appellation. 2022 is the second vintage. The fruit comes from two plots: a lower elevation, flatter parcel rich in marls and a steep, higher elevation site on sandy-clayey screes. This is a pure, rich, dark-fruited Marsannay, with phenomenal depth and a crunchy bitter cherry character. 100% destemmed. 

From a 0.4 hectare plot, located within the garden of the Varoilles winery in Gevrey-Chambertin, and surrounded by a stone wall. Ripe raspberry and redcurrant fruit, with a pure, tender immediacy. As Philippe says, there is a natural ripeness in this plot, requiring a hands-off approach–probably because the surrounding wall creates a micro-climate. He describes drawing out the elegance of the old vines. Nine barrels were made in 2022. 

This one hectare vineyard is a monopole, owned in its entirety by the domaine. It has similar stony soils to the adjacent 1er Cru Champonnets. Half of the vines here are over 60 years-old, whilst the rest are around half that, planted in the 1990s. The clay-limestone soils are relatively deep, interspersed with gravels. Philippe Cheron described this as “a joyous site and wine”. Effusive bright red berry and cherry, with raspberry coulis. The palate is sweetly fruited and joyful. 15 barrels were produced in 2022. 

This is an even stonier site than neighbouring Clos du Meix des Ouches. There are two parcels here, totalling over a hectare, making Couvent the biggest producer in Champonnet. It is an extension of Ruchottes-Chambertin, situated just before the cool breezes of the Combe de Lavaux. The terroir is complex, marked by the presence of numerous secondary faults, and where the orientation and slope of the hillside vary rapidly. The vines are between 30 and 60 years old. A blend of the ex-Varoilles and ex-Misset holdings, this has a combination of dark old vine fruit and fresh acidity. Lovely wine. 

Gevrey-Chambertin’s La Romanée is a premier cru high on the slope, beside a side-valley or combe, which delivers cooling breezes. The domaine has one hectare of vines here, with an average age of over 60 years. Half of the plot was originally planted to Chardonnay, before being replaced with Pinot Noir in the 60s. Very shallow soils (just 50cm) lie over a gravel and limestone bed rock, making for a naturally low-yielding site. Rich dark berry fruit, which feels old and venerable, sustained by fabulous freshness and grippy tannins on the finish. 15 barrels were made in 2022. 

Named after the size of the plots used in this cuvée–40 ouvrées or 1.78 hectares, an ouvrée being an old French term for the area of land a vigneron could work in one day. This wine comes from the historic Paul Misset estate, from 12 plots covering eight climats within the village of Chambolle-Musigny. Paul Misset (Philippe’s grandfather) pieced these holdings together from growers without enough vines to farm them commercially. Most of the vines are over 40 years old. 100% destemmed. Tender and perfume-infused, this gets at the essence of Chambolle, the roses and soaring red berries framed by very fine tannins. 20 barrels were made in 2022. 15% new oak. 

Coming from a plot of 10 ouvrées (0.42 hectares), within the larger climat of Clos de l’Orme, and bordering the 1er cru sites Les Charmes, Aux Combottes and Aux Echanges. There is a little slope, which is stony, aiding drainage. The vines were re-planted at various stages, between the 1940s and the youngest vines, planted in 1997. A darker-fruited nose, leading into a palate of greater concentration and power than the 40 Ouvrées cuvée. Lots of matter here. 50% whole bunch vinification. Only eight barrels were made.

This was introduced to the line-up in the 2021 vintage. Just 0.42 hectares. This site runs from the southern side of Chambolle Musigny to the premiers crus Charmes, Les Grands Murs and Chatelots. The name, Feusselote is derived from the word ‘Feusse’, meaning ‘hollow’ relating to the vineyard’s convex topography. The soils are shallow, composed of Comblanchien limestone and marl. Rich dark berry fruit, with limestone tension and finesse. Long, salty finish. Nine barrels were produced in 2022. 100% destemmed and aged in 15-20% new oak.

Philippe and Paul have two plots, covering 0.75 hectares, in the lieu-dit ‘Les Barreaux’. This climat sits above Richebourg, Cros Parantoux, Aux Brûlées and Les Petits Monts, high on the slope. Vines are planted over a thin calcareous top soil, with over 60% limestone. Part of the vineyard is cooler, facing north, whilst the remainder faces east. This retains fresh acidity and moderate alcohol. Raspberry coulis, rich and pure. 100% destemmed and aged in 15-20% new barrels. 

This is the domaine’s smallest plot, at 0.24 hectares. Philippe explained that the elegance of this cuvée is due to its location between Vosne-Romanée and Nuits-Saint-Georges. It has characteristics of both villages. Domaine du Couvent’s plot is mid-slope and comprises very old vines, which adds to the wine’s complexity. Spicy dark berries and liquorice, with exotic flair, bringing a freshness to the palate. Only four barrels were produced in 2022. Vinified entirely with whole bunches. 25% was raised in new oak barrels. 

Domaine du Couvent has two plots in the Clos de Vougeot, planted in 1950. The smallest plot is in the lower part of the Clos whilst the second,and largest, is close to Vosne-Romanée, near the holding of Liger-Belair. Philippe makes three cuvées with a view to, possibly, releasing them separately. But, so far, he has not made the move. Six barrels were made in 2022. 25% is vinified with whole bunches. A wine of sucrosity and red berries, with a fabulous suppleness and juiciness, framed by those firm Vougeot tannins. 50% aged in new barrels. 

We know this Charmes-Chambertin of old, it having been the top wine of Domaine des Varoilles. Philippe Cheron has coaxed out its refined side, limiting new oak and extraction and adapting to the vintage. Domaine du Couvent has 0.38 hectares, situated on the calcareous soils of the upper part of Mazoyères-Chambertin. Six and a half barrels were produced in 2022. Fine rose petal perfume, with great limestone tension on the palate, holding together the charming, supple and tender raspberry fruit. Entirely destemmed in 2022.