THE DOMAINE
Brothers Marc-Emmanuel and Olivier Cyrot are the fourth winemaking generation of this family domaine. They own six hectares of vines across Pommard, Volnay, Santenay and Maranges.
The cellars of Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau are dug into the side of a rocky escarpment in Pommard, adjacent to the premier cru Les Arvelets. The wines are hand harvested, destemmed and cold-macerated before fermentation.
The two brothers took back the family’s vineyards from fermage (long-term lease) in 1989. Olivier studied viticulture and makes the wines, while Marc-Emmanuel looks after the business side, alongside a successful business representing other local growers and advising on vineyard land purchases.
The wines are hand harvested and cold-macerated before fermentation. Previously destemmed, recent vintages have seen the inclusion of a proportion of whole clusters, which has softened the tannins and brought a renewed freshness to the wines. Oak ranges between 10% and 30%.
THE WINES
THE 2020 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU
Très joli, mais petite quantité…
OLIVIER CYROT, WINEMAKER
That says it all really, and we entirely agree. The wines here were always good but as mentioned above, have found an extra gear over the past few vintages, thanks in part to Olivier Cyrot’s recent introduction of some whole-bunch fermentation.
Olivier described 2020 as, “A beautiful year, with excellent weather until the end of July.” Spring was very sunny and very dry. An early season, without disease pressure.
The end of July and especially the beginning of August were marked by very hot weather. Unlike some, Olivier describes this as a “heatwave”, with a corresponding lack of water, which unfortunately resulted in the loss of a significant part of the domaine’s crop.
Harvest started on 27th August. The grapes were very healthy and were worked without difficulty. Olivier speaks of “Beautiful, fairly massive tannins, high natural ripeness and an impressive concentration: these are the characteristics of the harvest.”
A rich and concentrated vintage that will win lots of friends.
VOLNAY
This wine comes from five plots, two purchased in 1995 and two in 2010, in the middle of the appellation: one in Les Lurets, one in Cros Martin, one in Poisots, one in Les Famines and another in Les Paux Bois. Finely textured and with a joyful raspberry perfume, fresh acidity and fine, firm tannins. Really good. 20% whole-bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2024–2028
POMMARD
Eight climats go into this, the domaine’s village Pommard. Darker-fruited aromas, with a creamy density. The palate is joyfully, plumply proportioned, with juicy acidity and a tannic bite to the back-palate. This receives plentiful aeration but no punching-down. It gets 4-5 days’ cold soak, for colour, tannin and aroma, according to Olivier Cyrot. 20-25% whole bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2024–2028
POMMARD 1ER CRU LES ARVELETS
Les Arvelets is a 0.5 hectare south-facing sloping vineyard beside the domaine’s cuverie, whose red clay soils deliver high ripeness levels. Spicy, pure raspberry aromas. The palate is impressively dense, with a supple cushioning and a fruit coating to the tannins. The best Arvelets yet here? 30% new oak. 25% whole-bunch fermentation.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2030