Domaine Stéphane Magnien En Primeur 2020

This is a 0.5 hectare holding, producing a pleasantly juicy, herbaceous, early-drinking style. The plot is in the Morey-Saint-Denis village appellation and used to be blended into the Passetoutgrain. Half is in old oak, half in stainless steel. Brightly red-fruited, succulent Pinot fruit, with juicy acidity and fine tannins.

This is made from two gravelly parcels in the lieu-dit Les Crais Gillon, both located towards the bottom of the slope near the road. According to Stephane, this is “very Chambolle and red-fruited in style” – he is right! Red cherry and liquorice too, with a gratifying fleshiness.

The vines here are nearly 60 years old, growing on clay-heavy soils. This comes from two parcels, on either side of the Route Nationale. As always, this is a darker fruited style of Morey, with a firm tannic backbone and spicy, blueberry aromatics on the finish.

This 0.26 ha holding, in Les Athets, at the bottom of the village, was planted in 1902 and 1903, before the creation of the appellation system. Around 15% of the original plantings remain: these are ungrafted, on their own roots. Resoundingly ripe raspberry fruit and bright strawberry, with supple tannins and a brisk balancing freshness.

This 0.42 ha holding is just below Bonnes-Mares. The vines are 60 years old on average. An airborne, aromatic nose, of violets, peonies, roses. The palate is weightless and lifted, a wonderfully floral expression of Chambolle, with fine, fruit-coated tannins.

This is named after the walnut trees which must have grown nearby in the past. It is a blend of two premiers crus in the centre of the village, Les Gruenchers and Clos Baulet, both of which have a high clay content, making for a powerful style of wine, which is moderated by the 15-20% whole-bunch vinification, a deft move by Stephane and the only wine for which his does this.

This is a 0.6 hectare plot situated below Clos de la Roche. These are poor, dusty soils whose vines average 48 years of age. I enthusiastically scribbled “super-expressive” upon putting my nose into this glass – soaring raspberries and roses, which carry through to the palate and are framed by fine, perfume-laden tannins.

Situated above Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, almost at the forest’s edge, with sandier soils resulting in small millerand berries and consequently more body and structure. Ripe and effusive, with a tangerine zest lift, a bright citric joyfulness. Lovely wine. Only 400 bottles were produced though...

The vineyard from which the village of Morey-Saint-Denis takes its name, Clos-Saint-Denis has a subsoil of friable limestone. The domaine has 0.3 hectares. Very small millerand berries here. Beautiful, pure dark berry fruit aromas. The palate is taut and muscular, with no excess, stony-mineral and powerful. This receives 36 months of oak ageing.

A mere 0.19 hectares, located in Mazoyères-Chambertin, although this has always been labelled as a Charmes, as is permitted. The average vine age here is nearly 40 years. Planted on clay-limestone subsoil. So complete, this has it all – delectable red berry fruit, fine yet muscular tannins which are deftly fruit coated. 36 months of oak ageing.