The arrival of Gilbert Hammel in 1990 marked a turning point for the Domaine. Gilbert, of Swiss descent, has made Domaine des Varoilles a go-to producer of a succulent, rounded and supremely approachable style of Gevrey-Chambertin. The Varoilles holdings include two very special premiers crus monopoles, La Romanée and Clos des Varoilles. monopole indicating that the vineyards are in the sole property of the Domaine. In fact, the name Domaine des Varoilles comes, originally, from a premier cru monopole first planted in the 12th century.
The vineyard holdings have expanded over the years, and now cover ten hectares and eight appellations – each wine produced true to subtly different origins. There has been enormous investment here, re-invigorating naturally stunning old vine sites. Painstaking attention to detail in both the vineyard and cellar is reaping great rewards and the Domaine is now producing extremely fine wines making purists smile. Intense colours, profound aromatics, finesse and elegance are the watchwords here rather than power. There are no rough edges, even in youth, the wines complemented by freshness and lightness of touch, belying underlying, restrained muscle.