INTRODUCTION
"The project has gone beyond what I was hoping for." Guillaume d'Angerville, April 2021
Believe it or not, Domaine du Pélican is vinifying its 10th vintage in 2021. It is also its first release of an oxidative-style Savagnin, the Savagnin 2018 sous Voile (under veil). And in September 2023, they will launch their first Vin Jaune, the famous full oxidative-style wine of the Jura. It will be a Savagnin vintage 2016.
All these firsts should be cause for celebration. Unfortunately, the April frost of 2021 savagely affected the nascent harvest. The Domaine lost over 80% of its crop, forcing Guillaume d’Angerville and Francois Duvivier to only produce 3 cuvées. As a result, all the single vineyard’s grapes are blended in the estate wines. Yet the wines are really good, from what I tasted with Francois earlier in March this year.
Very similar to Burgundy, the harvest of 2022 is rather generous (6 times bigger at Pélican) and we should hopefully see all the cuvees back on offer!
For now, head for our website to learn more about the vintage 2021 at Domaine du Pélican and about their wines. And secure some of these very good wines.
Thibaut Mathieu
Managing Director, Corney & Barrow Asia
May 2023
THE 2021 VINTAGE
The difficulty of the vintage 2021 have been explained at length since the first offers from Burgundy and Jura hit the market. Guillaume d’Angerville and Francois Duvivier wrote soberly in their vintage report: it was difficult. The winter in the Jura was warmer than usual, protracting the vine cycle. When the 3 days of frost in April 2021 set up in the vineyard, it destroyed up to three quarters of the crop. Then later in June, hail took its toll too, reducing further the quantity of grape to harvest. In the end Domaine du Pélican lost 80% of its production. What little bunches reached the winery was however ripe, thanks to a hot and dry summer. There was only 3 wines produced as a result.
Smile was on the face of Francois though, when I went to Montigny-Lès-Arsures, to taste the new wines. The reasons for that? The purpose-built winery, now 2 year-old, is fulfilling its promise, to eleborate great wines. The vintage 2022 is promising in volume and in quality. There is a new cuvée with this offer: the Savagnin sous Voile 2018, the first oxidative-style wine released by the duo d’Angerville and Duvivier. And very importantly, the wines made in 2021 are good!
THE WINES
REDS
Domaine du Pélican is based in Montigny-lès-Arsures, near Arbois, in the Jura region, between Burgundy and Switzerland. The Domaine was established in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville, of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, and his longstanding régisseur in Volnay, François Duvivier. The wines are vinified, barrel-aged and bottle-aged at the estate. The holdings, as in Volnay, are mercifully close together, which is a blessing for biodynamic viticulture.
ARBOIS TROIS CÉPAGES 2021
Red wines are tasted first at Domaine du Pélican, to finish with the whites and their refreshing minerality. This is the Burgundian way! The 2021 3 Cépages is light in colour yet expressive. The nose displays appealing Pinot Noir aromas of crunchy small red fruits. The wine is chiselled and nervy. Ready to be drunk now. A touch of saltiness at the end of the palate asks for another glass.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023–2028
WHITES
Domaine du Pélican is based in Montigny-lès-Arsures, near Arbois, in the Jura region, between Burgundy and Switzerland. The Domaine was established in 2012 by Guillaume d’Angerville, of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville in Volnay, and his longstanding régisseur in Volnay, François Duvivier. The wines are vinified, barrel-aged and bottle-aged at the estate. The holdings, as in Volnay, are mercifully close together, which is a blessing for biodynamic viticulture.
ARBOIS CHARDONNAY 2021
There is only 4 barrels made of this cuvee in 2021. The grapes benefitted from longer hang time on the vines and reached very good ripeness. The wine is lush, showing ripe citrus aromas and white flesh orchard fruits. It is a generous white wine, with the signature salty note at the end.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2030
ARBOIS SAVAGNIN OUILLÉ 2021
The estate Savagnin is made without oxidative characters. It is a fresh expression of Savagnin, topped up or Ouillé to use the winemaker’s technical term. Aromas of orchard fruits and citrus on the nervy side come out of the glass. The wine is structured, rather long and vivacious. It reminded me of lime zest and caviar lemon’s taste. Some subtle notes of white flowers complete the nose. This is another great Savagnin by Domaine du Pélican from a not easy vintage.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2030
£195 / CASE OF 3 MAGNUMS, IN BOND UK
ARBOIS SAVAGNIN SOUS VOILE 2018
I can’t say I only drove the 80 minutes from Beaune to Montigny-lès-Arsures just to taste this wine. It would not be fair for Francois Duvivier who was waiting for me and who is of excellent company. And it would not be fair either for the other wines I was to taste. But I was certainly very excited to discover the first release of an oxidative-style Savagnin from Domaine du Pélican. This first ever release is a success in my book. The classic nutty, salty, spicy characters of this style of wine are there, in an elegant rendition. The palate is mineral and fresh, with stewed pear aromas enhanced by salty almond. The wine is balanced and digest. Well done! I now can’t wait to taste their first release of Vin Jaune (yellow wine), next year.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2029