DOMAINE DU PÉLICAN 2020

The typical minerality of the region, the enticing saline touch that calls instantly for another glass, is what comes first. It is carried along by seductive aromas of crunchy little red berries. The subtle and unmistakable onion peel hue will win you over too. Aged in foudre only, the wine is an ode to elegance and finesse.

This is very expressive and delivers instant gratification. It is a blend of Pinot Noir (60%), Trousseau (35%) and Poulsard (5%). Unlike previous years, the Pinot is dominated aromatically by the two other varietals at first. The wine is round, ripe and fleshy. And always supported by the Jura salinity. I can’t wait to have another glass.

The most Burgundian of the four reds, this wine is always a crowd-pleaser. Unfortunately, aggressive oidium took its toll and consequently yields were very low in 2020. Classic Pinot aromas jump out of the glass, and the nose is soft, dominated by sweet spices. The palate offers red berries and rose petals. There was a touch of reduction on the finish, a good sign for ageing. It will need some time to unfold.

Acquired from the estate of Jacques Puffney, this is the most aristocratic of the Domaine du Pelican reds. The plot is a mere 33 ares and there aren’t many bottles produced. Ruby-coloured, the wine opens with red fruit aromas, developing into blackberry, blueberry and strawberry notes. A touch of saltiness broadens the palate, which is supported by elegant tannins. The finish is long, the wine is complex. A wine that demands – and deserves! - fine cuisine.

This is the rule with Guillaume d’Angerville: we taste the white wines after the reds.

The Arbois Chardonnay shows the sun of the vintage, with aromas of ripe apple coming first, followed by the classic minerality of the Bajocian limestone over the grey marls. The wine is fresh and poised, with broad shoulders. It has a defined Burgundian style, almost akin to Meursault. Yet it is Jura through-and-through, with its typical crushed shell notes to the fore.

The single vineyard wines of the domaine are always one (in fact several…) step(s) higher. The En Barbi 2020 has the vintage’s signature ripeness and power, which is why Guillaume and Francois opted for a separate bottling. 2018 was the first commercial release. Ripe white fruit aromas on the nose are followed by refreshing citrus notes. Fresh pear flavours bring vivacity and opulence. A superb and refined wine. You will want to set few bottles aside.

The site, in Arbois, is a single plot of 5 ha planted with Chardonnay and Savagnin. It is open to the elements, and despite ample sun exposure, it is a cooler site, when compared to En Barbi. This is perhaps due to the marked gradient in the slope and its northern exposure. Grand Curoulet is recognised by the vignerons Jurassiens for its grand cru status thanks to the quality of the marls from the Triassic era. It is one of the best sites in Arbois. The wine displays tension, freshness and energy. Green apple and white flowers aromas jump out of the glass. The fossil shells in the soil bring the salinity that I like in Jura wines. The wine is lean, complex with a nice length in mouth. Choosing between this wine and En Barbi, is a question of personal taste. Then again, why choose?

The wine exudes exotic and tropical fruits and continues with citrus. The nose has enticing aromas of white flowers and fragrant trees. A touch of spice and dried nuts on the finish add some volume to the softness and delicacy. The salinity of the terroir is very subtle. Really good wine in 2020. The Savagnin is Jura’s signature grape, and also the Domaine’s calling card. Many styles of Savagnin exist. This cuvee, Ouillé (also called Naturé) seeks to protect aromatic freshness by contrast with the oxidative style of Vin Jaune or Savagnin aged under flor (sous-voile). The energy and vivacity are so refreshing and enticing. This wine should be in your cellar.

This is a taut expression of Savagnin. The combination of marls (grey and multi-coloured from the Triassic period) produces that oh so good salinity and complexity which characterise this wine. Aromas of citrus and crunchy green apple wake up your palate. The white blossom notes impart elegance and finesse. The precision is charming. I want to see how this will age and the volume that will develop with time.

This is my favourite wine in the line-up, but I admit it is somewhat idiosyncratic! This is an introduction to orange wine and to the oxidative characters developed by the Savagnin grape with time. Francois Duvivier likes drinking this cuvee with blue cheese and any strong cheese. I agree. I drink it with spicy food, mostly Asian food. But I also like it on its own, just with cold cuts or nibbles. The colour is pinkish, deeper than the colour of the Savagnin Ouillé. The minerality is stronger and so are the tropical fruit aromas. The wine fills the mouth with its volume and density. It is a dry wine, with layer upon layer of aromas. Then the combination of dry nuts and savoury notes have you  staring into the glass, to reflect on what you are drinking. I told you, I like this wine.

This is a sparkling wine made only with Savagnin grape. The wine is aged for one year, as a classic white wine. Then a part of fermenting must of the next year is added to the bottle and this second fermentation transform the still wine in sparkling wine.
On tasting, you find the aromatic of the Savagnin, and fine refreshing bubbles. The wine is made with ripe grapes, so the palate is round, balanced, and elegant. The sharp minerality of the still Savagnin is hiding behind notes of ripe orchard fruit and tropical fruit. It is a fantastic wine for aperitif.