THE DOMAINE
Domaine Justin Girardin is a 17 hectare estate in Santenay, with holdings stretching north to Pommard and Savigny.
We have worked with Justin since his first solo year at the helm of this family domaine, the 2015 vintage.
The Girardin family traces its Burgundian roots back to 1570. Justin, the 13th generation, returned to the domaine in 2010, working alongside his parents, Valérie and Jacques, who had bought the domaine from his uncle, Vincent Girardin.
Of the three premiers crus Santenays, Clos Rousseau has the greatest ageing potential and substance, whilst Beauregard is approachable younger, with Maladière sitting somewhere in between. The wines are 100% destemmed.
THE WINES
THE 2021 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE JUSTIN GIRARDIN
40% of the overall crop was lost here in 2021, the losses concentrated on the premiers crus. The average yield of the three Santenay 1ers Crus was a mere 8hl/ha. Justin called 2021 “the polar opposite of 2020!”
In 2021, winemaking included 5-7 days of pre-fermentation cold soak to extract aroma, three pump-overs at the beginning of vinification and four days of post-fermentation maceration at 27°C. The wines had one year of lees contact in barrel, with no racking until bottling, which took place in mid-November 2022, the month after our visit.
SANTENAY 1ER CRU LA MALADIÈRE
The name Maladière comes from the nearby Maladière of Chagny hospital. This is a sunny, warm site. It is a south-east facing vineyard, with deeper soils, located in the centre of the appellation. Justin has 0.7 hectares here. Darker, forest aromas – blueberry, blackberry and Black Forest gâteau. The palate is cool and focused, with a salty granular grip on the finish. 13% abv. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025–2031
SANTENAY 1ER CRU CLOS ROUSSEAU
Clos Rousseau has deep, heavy clay soils. Justin’s vines here have correspondingly deep root networks, allowing them to retain more water and conferring an age-worthiness on the resulting wines. The domaine has almost one hectare here. The rich, powerful side of Clos Rousseau is irrepressible: this is surprisingly dense in 2021, a real over-performer. Blackberries and refined tannins, supported by 20% new oak. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2027–2032+
SANTENAY 1ER CRU BEAUREGARD
Beauregard, with its distinctive windmill and stunning views towards Chassagne-Montrachet, is the highest of the domaine’s Santenay holdings, around 50 metres above the others. The soils here are the poorest of the three sites yet this tends to be the most approachable in its youth. Sweet, dark fruit aromas of bitter cherry, liquorice and kirsch, sustained by bright acidity, with supple tannins. 25% new oak. 13% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2024–2030
POMMARD LES VIGNOTS
The domaine’s Pommard is now made from just the two best plots, in Les Vignots. Around half a hectare in size and the highest elevation across the estate. A generous, supple wine, with ripe blackberries and well-structured, fruit-coated tannins. Sweet spices on the finish – dark, decadent and impressively concentrated. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2031